Photography Blog

Many times people think they can only take amazing wildlife pictures away from home, but many times, you can get great pictures right in your own backyard.

Photographing Wildlife with Feathers or Fur

Depending upon where you live, there are lots of ways to convert your yard into a wildlife sanctuary for birds, frogs, squirrels and other critters.

If you want to feed wildlife, don’t feed them food from your cupboard but instead follow the wildlife attraction and sustainability tips from the National Wildlife Federation so you can be sure you’re helping them and not hurting them.

By following the advice from wildlife experts, you will also be creating an environmentally friendly landscape that will be good for the animals and the environment.

Take some time to read up on the species you want to photograph so you can better understand their habits and hopefully take better pictures of them. And you will be better able to avoid attracting potentially dangerous predators into your yard. You might also want to check out the code of ethics posted for professional nature photographers by the North American Nature Photography Association.

Just as with photographing pets, when you take a picture of a furry or feathery wild critter, follow these guidelines:

* Use natural lighting to your advantage

* Fill the frame with the subject

* Focus on the eyes

* Shoot from various angles

* Capture personality

Photographing the World of Insects

Wildlife photography also includes the tiny world of insects. Butterflies, dragonflies, snails, ladybugs, honeybees, bumblebees, spiders are all commonly photographed subjects.

Like animals, photographing insects can be challenging. Here are some tips from the pros to help:

* Like with larger wildlife, it will help to know your subject’s patterns of behavior. Watch where the butterflies land and see if they prefer one flowery shrub more than the others. Then stake it out and wait for the subject to come to you. And be ready!

* To get the best shots of small creatures at rest, use macro mode and fill the frame. Your camera’s manual will tell you how close your macro mode works. If you stay within the recommended range and hold your camera very steady (using a tripod) you will get some nice sharp shots.

* You should use sports mode or flash to freeze action unless the insect is sitting very still.

* Most insects are very sensitive to carbon dioxide and will run or fly away if you breathe directly on them. So when you lean in to take the photo, make sure to hold your breath! However, there are some insects like beetles that will freeze when you breath on them.

* Keep in mind some insects and spiders pack powerful, even deadly venom, so know your bug before approaching.

* Try to take pictures in early morning or twilight because insects slow down with cooler temperatures and it will make it easier to shoot a picture. Insects can see shadows very well so don’t approach from the same direction as the light casts.

Photographs of wildlife can make for beautiful fine art, the type that you’ll want to frame and display proudly and give as gifts. You can also use your animal or insect pictures in photo crafts like in calendars or greeting cards. There are simply lots of wonderful things you can do with your beautiful animal and insect pictures so have fun capturing the wonderful world of nature.

Trail Cameras

R. Dodge Woodson

World Photographers Organization

I looked into trail cameras recently. My son wanted on to monitor our woods with, and I thought it might put a new spin on my wildlife photography.  No, I am not suggesting that anyone use trail cameras to capture wildlife photos for sale or display. The pictures you get, however, can put you in the right area with your wildlife gear.

Much of the time spent afield by wildlife photographers to establish details on their intended subjects. Granted, kicking around the woods is a great way to spend a day. But, if you have limited time and need some specific wildlife images, a trail camera can be a big help.

Let’s use my land as an example. I have well over 100 acres for critters to live in. Where are they? What watering locations are they using? Is there a particular area where they are feeding? All of these questions can be answered with the application of good woodsman skills, but a trail camera can tell you more in less time.

Let’s say that I know a large whitetail buck is walking a particular old woods road. His tracks show me where he likes to get his water from. I can estimate his weight from the depression depth of the tracks, but how big are the antlers? Try figuring that one out with basic tracking and hunting skills.

A trail camera can capture a picture of my wandering buck and I will be able to see precisely how many points can be counted on the animal’s rack. Ah, how could it get any better than this? Well, believe it or not, it can. I recommend to members of World Photographers Organization that they used trail cameras to increase scouting for better wildlife photography.

Imagine that you are in your office making deals. As you talk on the speaker phone, read some briefs, and toy with your computer, you are shaken back to attention by a passing bear. What? A bear at your office? Not quite. The bear is on a live feed on your computer monitor. That’s right, your trail camera has a video feed and has locked onto a strolling bear. The trail cam sends a signal to a modem. Then the modem uses a cellular connection to send the video footage to your computer. You are talking about selling a hotel and watching a bear walk along your favorite game trail at the same time.

Okay, enough of setting the stage. Let’s take a look at the pros and cons of trail cameras. Our goal here is to look at them as tools for wildlife photographers who have limited time to spend in the field.

How Many Megapixels?

What kind of quality can you expect from the various types of trail cameras? Each camera has its own features and benefits.  Price is usually a factor in quality, and there is no exception here. If you want to spend top dollar, around 0, you can get a camera with a 7 mp rating. Want more? Spend 0 and you can get high definition. On the low end, you can spend for a camera with 2 mp. The surveillance systems give 1.3 mp for 0. A still camera that provides 1.3 mp is 0. From what other owners have told me, cameras with 4 megapixels get the job done well and more megapixels does better. No surprise there.

How Tough?

How tough does a trail camera have to be? The quality of the lens is always important, as is the overall performance of a camera. Trail cameras are forced to endure some tough times. They get rained on, caught in high winds, bounced around, and worse. Look for a camera with a solid encasement.

One complaint I have heard of often is the attachment system between some cameras and their source of stability, which is usually a tree. Many users have experienced broken straps. I suggest that you look each camera you are considering over closely to see that their means of attachment will be dependable. You don’t want a 0 camera falling into a trail only to be walked on by a moose.

Won’t Someone Steal The Camera?

It could happen. Containers are made to protect cameras from pawing bears and such, but I doubt that any of the protection against humans would be effective. The best means of security is concealment. Get creative with some natural cover and make the camera housing melt into the background.

What’s The Difference Between IR Cameras and cameras with Flashes?

Price is the first difference that you may notice. It is common for cameras with white flash to cost less than infrared (IR) flash. The reason is simple. When a common flash fires, animals can see the light. When an IR flash fires, the beam is not visible to the animal. Smart, old animals will quickly learn to avoid areas that flash at them.

The distance that a flash covers varies greatly with trail cameras. An average distance is probably 35-40 feet. Some only reach out to 20 feet and others go out to 60 feet. The one I ordered covers 50 feet with an IR flash.

What Else Should I Look For In The Comparison Of Trail Cameras?

When I started looking for a good trail camera I figured it couldn’t be too tough for a pro photographer to pick out a viable camera. Let me tell you, trail cameras are not as easy to decide on as a Canon 5D MarkII.

My quest took me to 25 different trail cameras. Of these, there were 10 different brands. I had my work cut out for me.  A lot of information was available through Internet searches. The best overall comparison I found for trail cameras was at Cabelas. Check out the list below to see some other features to consider when buying a trail camera:

Power Source How Many Batteries Are Needed? Does The Unit Offer Video Options? Can The Camera Be Powered By A Solar Panel? Does The Camera Have Built-In Memory? If so, how much? (16-32 mb is common). Will I Have A Viewer Built Into The Camera? What Is the Unit’s Memory Card Capacity? How Fast Can The Camera Fire? How Many Bursts Can The Camera Shoot? At What Temperature Ranges Can The Camera Function? What Do You Get As A Warranty? And, Of Course, How Much Does The Camera Cost?

There You Have It.

Well, there you have it. You can spend less than 0 or more than 0 for a camera. There are a few good ones available for less than 0. Until you start spending upwards of 5, don’t expect a lot of bells and whistles or long-term toughness.

I spent a lot of time compiling all of this information is my search for a suitable trail camera. Hopefully, you will find the data useful. If you enjoy wildlife photography, a trail camera might be your best next investment

Life is good when seen through a Canon® L lens.

R. Dodge Woodson

Rule #1: Have Patience

Patience is Virtue

When you spend a lot of time with an animal, you’ll see amazing things. So when you’re shooting in the wild, in a zoo, or at home with your pets, you’ll need lots of patience to get an amazing photo. I often spend hours watching an animal in the wild or at a zoo exhibit, just waiting for the perfect opportunity.

Rule #2: Take Lots of Pictures

Sometimes it takes 1000 photographs for that one perfect shot

Give up your old film habits, and shoot a lot of pictures with your digital camera. Like humans, animals have “good” and “bad” expressions and postures, so the more pictures you take, the more likely you are to get a great shot. For example, in a four-hour game drive, I will shoot about 500 images, not worrying about the “bad ones.” Then during the editing process on my computer, I will select the best ones.

Rule #3: Use Standard Settings

Animal photography is motion photography, so being ready is very important. Set your camera to standard settings (see below), and return to these settings after you’ve altered them for a specific situation (if time allows).

Standard Settings

Shooting Mode: Aperture Control AV; P for flash use
Image Recording Quality: JPG Best Quality; or RAW
White Balance: Shade (outdoors); AWB (indoors)
ISO: 400 (good weather); 1600 (bad weather and indoors)
Metering Mode: Center Weighted
Drive Mode: Single Shooting
Auto Focus Mode: One Shot; AI Servo if object is moving towards you or away from you
Auto Focus Points: Center Point Only

Rule #4: Keep the Eyes in Focus

Eyes give photographs character and depth

Remember that an animal is not a cathedral—you’ll only have a few seconds to compose a shot. When using “center point focus,” you are in control of the focus, not your camera, so make sure that the animals’ eyes are sharp and in focus. Compose the shot so that the eyes are in the center of the picture, and leave extra room around your subject so you can crop the image later.

Rule #5: Learn How To Over and Under Expose

Play with exposure settings to get surprising results

Once you have your standard settings, you can use the exposure compensation feature (+/-) to adjust for a perfect picture. If your subject is much darker than the surroundings, use the over-expose (+) to lighten the image. If your subject is much lighter, use the under-expose (-) to darken the image. I usually adjust in increments of .5, but experiment with the feature to find what works best (and what doesn’t).

Rule #6: A Higher ISO Is Your Friend

With animals, you need short exposure times because they’re always moving. I rarely use use a tripod—though sometimes I’ll use a monopod—so I can adapt to their movements quickly. When I use a full aperture set, I’ll use a higher ISO (800-1600 or even above). Older digital cameras will usually have visible noise over 400 ISO, but results with newer digital SLRs are much better. I think it’s better to have an image with a little more noise than a picture completely out of focus.

Rule #7: Get Down There!

Take photographs anywhere but eye level

If you want tension in your pictures, get on eye level with your subject, or even below eye level. I often find myself laying flat on the floor when shooting in zoos. Many exhibits are below the observer, which is good for watching the animals but bad for photography!

Rule #8: Avoid the Flash—Use a Flashlight Instead!

I don’t like flash pictures because they’re mostly flat and have no depth. In wildlife photography, you seldom have the time for good flash setup (with multiple flashes) anyway. I’d rather use a higher ISO and try my luck without a flash. A standard, hand-held flashlight can help by producing a glint in the eye of an animal and lightening up a dark corner.

Rule #9: Eliminate Fences

Zoom through the gap in the fences

When there are fences between you and your subject, get as close to the fence as possible without touching it (legal moves only, please). Extend your zoom to the largest telephoto setting, and open the aperture full. Ideally, your subject will be in the middle, between the front and back fences. Shoot through the shaded parts of the fence, and the fence should disappear from your shot.

The first people to mutter it’s a jungle out there may have been those working in wildlife photography. Working with wildlife can be exceptionally challenging as most creatures will not stop to present and generally do not listen to commands of any type. A few involved in wildlife pictures liken it to baby photography, in having to possess exception reflexes to catch the shot as it seems, as you likely won’t get another chance.

Although not all wildlife photography involves jungle animals or zoo residents, it offers similar challenges. Taking pictures of pets can be a tricky venture and untamed wildlife photography can sometimes be harmful. Even taking pictures of birds in trees will offer technical challenges as well as simply being able to keep your bird from hiding at the rear of a branch.

The proper gear, especially lenses, can make a difference between good wildlife photography along with a picture of an arm or leg with something blue onto it. Showing animals in their natural habitat is a perfect consideration and getting near enough for an identifiable picture is made easier with the use of therefore-called longer contacts. The right aperture as well as shutter speed on your contacts will help obtain that special, yet elusive picture.

Weather Conditions Affect Results

Obviously, wildlife photography in it natural habitat will be outdoor in the creatures home territory and the weather is not always cooperative. It may be easier to wait for much better conditions when trying to film a specific species, but better weather offers no guarantee the critter will return the next day for another sitting. When you see the animal you want to picture, think of it as special sale at your preferred store. If you do not have it while it is there, it probably will not be there tomorrow.

Some pictures shout to be taken immediately such as a traditionally nocturnal raccoon prowling throughout the day or an owl seated on an open branch in bright daylight. Both will be rare occurrences and it may be quite a long time before that opportunity rises again. Those interested in animals photography need to have the actual attitude to be ready for anything at any time.

There are a few important things to remember about wildlife photography. First, you are taking pictures of wild creatures and, for your own security do not do anything that could be considered stupid that may cause harm to you or the animal. Also, do not make an effort to force the animal in to performing an action. It may not be the one you intended and patience could provide an animals organic actions and provide a much better picture.

Wildlife photography can be one of the most challenging and rewarding fields of nature photography. With digital cameras creating such widespread interest in all types of photography, new photographers all over the world are taking an interest in wildlife photography.

Most of the photography guides these days focus on the technical aspects of the camera: but really good photography relies more on composition, lighting, and sensitivity to your subject. This means you can improve your photography by thinking creatively, not technically.

Here are five of my top tips for taking better wildlife photographs.

Wildlife Photography Tip #1. Get to the subject’s eye level. Wildlife photos are most effective if they create an intimate connection between the subject and the viewer. The best way to do this is to take your photo at the subject’s eye level. This way, your wildlife photo can create the illusion of sharing a moment inside the world of the subject, rather than from the outside looking in.

If, for example, your subject is low to the ground (like a lizard, frog, or even a pet), crouch or lie flat, getting as low as possible so you can take your photo at the subject’s eye level.

Wildlife Photography Tip #2.It’s All In The Eyes. The personal connection mentioned in tip #1 is really about eye contact, so it is important to get the eyes right. If the eyes in your wildlife photo are sharp and clear, the photo will probably work. If they are out of focus, lost in shadow, or if the subject blinks or turns its eyes away, the connection will be lost, and the photo will almost certainly fail.

You don’t even need your whole subject to be in focus. Your animal could be mostly hidden by leaves, in shadow and out of focus. The picture could still work…as long as the eyes are open and captured sharply in the picture.

Wildlife Photography Tip #3. If The Background Doesn’t Help, Get Rid Of It. Many wildlife photos are spoiled because the background is cluttered, distracting, ugly, or just plain inappropriate. For example, seagulls on a beach can be quite beautiful, but seagulls at the local rubbish tip is a different matter. Also, wildlife photos look far less natural if you can tell they were taken in a zoo. Apply this principle: “Anything that does not make my photo better, makes it worse.”

This does not mean you can’t take a good wildlife photo at the zoo, at the tip, or anywhere else for that matter. You just need to manage it. If your background is spoiling your shot, zoom right in on the subject to eliminate as much of the background as possible. By zooming in, you will also reduce the depth of field to a minimum, so any background that does appear in your photo will be out of focus and less distracting.

Wildlife Photography Tip #4. If Your Background Is Working For You, Use It Well. A wildlife photograph that captures the subject in a beautiful natural setting can be even more effective than a simple close-up. My photos of a kangaroo on the beach, for example, show the subject in an unexpected context, making a more interesting image than a close-up portrait style photo.

If you take your wildlife subject as part of a wider landscape, you need to consider all the techniques of composition that apply to landscape photography. Remember the rule of thirds (which may or may not help) and be careful to position your animal so that the subject and the background work together to make a more effective composition. In particular, try to position your wildlife subject so that it looks toward the centre of the picture, not towards the edge of the frame.

wildlife Photography Tip #5. Capture your subject in the best possible light. Even the most perfectly composed wildlife photo can fail because of bad lighting. Losing your subject in the shadows, glare reflecting off shiny feathers, and shadows across the face of the subject are all simple mistakes that can ruin a photo.

There is no single rule for lighting in a wildlife photograph, but here are some suggestions. I often find the best results when the sky is lightly overcast with thin cloud. This produces light that is bright, but soft and even compared to full sunlight. Your subject will be well illuminated, but you avoid harsh contrast and heavy shadows that rob the image of important detail.

If the weather is sunny, try to take your photos early and late in the day when the sun is low. At these times the light is soft and warmly coloured. It is also easier to catch the full face of your subject in sunlight, rather than half-obscured by shadow.

So there you have my five tips for wildlife photography. I could cheat and add tip #6: take lots of photos. Animals move, blink, flap their wings, and generally find ways to frustrate the wildlife photographer. Don’t forget, with digital photography it costs you nothing to keep snapping. So practice, persevere, and try out these tips…you could be taking better photos in no time.

If you were in the animal natural habitat along with them then you would get photographs of a different sort. But life’s full of little compromises and going to the zoo when you’re unable to visit these animals in their natural habitat is a great alternative.

You don’t only need to take wildlife shots of big cats or soaring eagles in their natural habitats. Yes, you can go to the zoo. Wildlife photography, just like landscape photography can be accomplished from home without your even having to leave for parts unknown. To begin with if you have a pet, you can consider that your first wildlife photography target and dog them around until you get what you want (excuse the pun please!).

That was my very first experience at wildlife photography and although I didn’t get too many great shots background-wise I did get many a candid shot of my dog who was admittedly curious at first of this new toy in my hands, and then latterly very long suffering. It got to the point that he would run under the table to get away from me and my camera because I had been hounding him so much (again, sorry for the pun).

I did however get some great portrait shots of him which I appreciate very much as it shows his long suffering expressions very well. There are other ways you can get wildlife shots from your home and they don’t all have to be of your dog, your cat, your pet hamster, iguana or any other type of pet.

Although I have to say that a snake as a pet might yield some interesting results.

But if you have a pond at home then you can maybe try for the fish, or the frogs that are bound to be attracted to your pond. You have all manner of insects to photograph not to mention such things as butterflies and ladybugs. And if you look hard enough there are always a myriad of birds hopping in and out of your garden as well as squirrels, chipmunks and maybe even raccoons. And if these don’t catch your fancy then I say go after your dog again, you can’t lose out with that!

Ever thought of taking up wildlife photography? You don’t have to travel to Africa, Asia or South America to get beautiful wildlife pictures. You will find that even your current surroundings already have some form of wildlife and by the way am not talking about your cat or dog. There are Zoo’s in your surrounding area where you get to view all varieties of animals that you can see and take photos off. But I am sure the fact that they are locked up and just sitting there is really getting you down and probably you now want to take a trip to some exotic country that offers chances for to be able to get wildlife photographs. 

This is not the only option you have; there are several forms of wildlife that you see all the time. Such as birds and insects which can be of great interest to you if you are into wildlife photography. You can also travel to other states where you can find bears and moose which are Americas number one tourist attractions.

However if you are still insistent on traveling to another country then you should try Africa where you will get to see a lot more wildlife than you could in your zoo and this animals will be more exciting because they are in their natural habitat. If After all this you are not still satisfied, you can move on to taking photographs of urban and metro buildings, not before you have also tried taking photos of flowers and local plantation.

wildlife is all over and maybe you just can’t see it. Let’s say you live in the country and you have cattle and other animals on your farm. Then these animals are your wildlife. However there must be other forms of real wildlife in your surroundings such as birds, moles, squirrels, badgers, mongoose and any other form of wildlife that might be running around near your farm.

It’s also okay if you want to go look up and see what other animals can be found in your surroundings. Most of this information will probably be found online. Many wildlife photographers are always out to find the latest species that they can say they discovered. Don’t forget nature is also part of your wildlife.

A lot of us ignore our surroundings always looking for other places to search for what we can get in our own country. For example if wildlife photography is really what you want, then check out the great parks that provide all the wildlife you will want to take photos of. You will probably get to see bears, moose, deer and much more. You can also take a road trip to some of the Zoo’s and water parks where you can get to see wildlife from the sea.

wildlife photography surrounds us everywhere and with it we get to take lovely photos which can be shared with others who are as enthusiastic about it as we are. Take your time to do your research and learn more about your surrounding area, you just never know what kind of wildlife might be out there.

Wildlife photography requires a combination of camera skills, timing and patience. One essential aspect is often forgotten: knowing how to use the light to get the best results from your wildlife photos.
To take a top-class wildlife photograph, you need to know your animal; where to find it, how to approach it without scaring it away, and how to know the precise moment to press the button to capture the character of the subject. Often a wildlife photographer will spend hours trying to get a good shot. What a shame, then, if all that effort is wasted by taking your photo in bad light.
As a nature photographer, I have learned that the ideal light for a photo can vary depending on the subject. Landscape photos are usually best photographed in sunny weather, early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the contrast is low and the light is soft and colouful. On the hand, rainforest photography is usually best in the middle of the day, in cloudy weather to eliminate extremes of light and shade. To understand the best lighting for wildlife photography, you can take a lesson from both landscape and rainforest photography.
To get the best light for a wildlife photo, you are really looking to minimize contrast, and to eliminate shadows from important areas; most importantly across the face of the animal.
If you take your photos in the middle of a sunny day, you are bound to encounter shadows in all the wrong places. Bright light is likely to overexpose parts of the subject, while the face and the underside of the animal could be lost in heavy shadow. The result will be unattractive, and lacking in much of the detail that should give character to your photo.
There is nothing wrong with taking your wildlife photos on a sunny day. Just remember the lesson from landscape photography and seek to take your photos early in the morning and late in the afternoon. At these times the subject is illuminated from a more horizontal angle, so the full face of the animal is well-lit; you are less likely to have shadows over the eyes and other important features. If there are shadows, they will be much softer because the contrast is much lower when the sun is low in the sky.
The light at these times is also much more colourful, with the golden hues you associate with sunrise and sunset. This is a classic technique for improving landscapes, but it can be just as effective for wildlife. The warmth of the light can create an intimacy in your pictures that is completely lost in the harsh light of midday.
The second approach is to follow the rule of rainforest photography, and take your photos in overcast weather. This allows you to catch your subject in very even, low-contrast light.
I find cloudy days particularly useful for animals with glossy surfaces. Frogs, for example, have damp, shiny skin that reflects a lot of light. In glary conditions a green frog may appear mostly grey or silver in a photo. On a cloudy day the same frog will be shown in its true colours.
Birds can often appear more colourful on a cloudy day, for the very same reason. The sun shining on glossy feathers can create a lot of reflection, robbing the photo of its natural colour. It may seem the opposite of what you would expect, but the dull light of a cloudy day can actually produce the truest colours in a bright wildlife subject.
One final question you may ask: should you use a flash to illuminate a wildlife photo? My answer to that is a definite “NO.” Flash photography bathes the subject in white light, coming from directly in front of the subject. It may illuminate the subject, but at the same time rob it of the natural play of light and shade that makes a good photo so appealing.
Some wildlife photography experts use multiple flashes to brightly illuminate a subject from every possible angle. This approach can work very well, but remember; these are experts in flash photography. If you are at the beginner stage, I recommend learning to work with natural light. When you get the hang of it, I guarantee you will be happy with the results.