Photography Blog

Okay, most of you are probably aware of the typical gear that a photographer may take with him or her when out in the field: a camera body or two, several lenses, filters, memory cards, a light meter, a grey card, a reflector, a flash unit, a camera bag of sorts, and so on and so forth. But what about the less obvious gear?

Out in the field, you may come across a variety of conditions. At the end of the day, your aim will be to capture the scenes you planned for, and to do so productively, safely and with minimal fuss. Below is a list I have made of some of the less-obvious items that may help you achieve this result. Note that it is by no means an exhaustive list!

Personal Alarm – No, it’s not a joke. There have been more than several occasions when I wished I had one. Make sure it sounds at 120 dB or more, and that it is easy to activate, as well as being easy to disarm.

Emergency GPS-based beacon – As far as I’m concerned, these are an absolute must when shooting in remote locations, regardless of whether you are in a group or not. Alternatively, try to get a satellite phone, although these can be difficult to acquire and probably cost a whole lot more.

First-aid kit – It is best to choose one that caters specifically for the outdoors or camping.

Hiking Boots – Try to choose boots that are comfortable and very pliable. It is also a good idea to ensure that the sole offers high grip. Some boots are rated as waterproof, which can be a very handy feature. Try to choose boots that go past the ankles. Ultimately, your choice will be a compromise between safety and comfort.

LED torch – Great for checking out any settings on your camera (or other gear that may not be illuminated) when shooting at sunset, sunrise or at night. Necessary for finding the right spot, for setting up properly and for avoiding hazards. What is your tripod actually resting on?

Waterproof or Fast-Dry Jacket – Whichever way you go, try to choose something with a lot of pockets, and something that is comfortable and pliable, and has velcro-style zippers instead of buttons. I once wore this stiff leather jacket out in the field, and it really inhibited my movement.

More than one pair of socks and shoes – One slip into that water and you’ll be cursing for quite a while. Not the best thing to help get the creative juices flowing.

Small Padded Cushion – As a photographer, you’ll be doing a lot of kneeling. Save those knees and get comfortable! Alternatively, use skateboarder’s knee protectors.

Sunscreen – These days, you shouldn’t be leaving home without it. You can now buy mineral-based sunscreens, without those nasty chemicals. Ask at your pharmacy.

Insect Repellant – Again, no need for nasty chemicals here. Ask your pharmacy for natural alternatives.

Plastic Garbage Bags – These can be great for protecting equipment or can even be used as a makeshift raincoat.

Panadol or Equivalent – Don’t let that headache spoil the day.

Energy Bars – You may be surprised at just how much energy you burn during a typical shoot. Keep your energy levels up and stay, err…focused.

Water – Another important area to look at, from a safety and productivity perspective. Try to drink regularly when out in the field !

Heavy-Duty Laptop – If you’re like me, and you like to get some work done on computer when out in the field (or in the tent), these can be really useful. I used to take run-of-the-mill laptops with me, but they tend not to last (it probably says a lot about me, perhaps), and they can’t take too many knocks. Panasonic’s Toughbooks are really nice, and offer some level of water resistance. Look around, there may be alternatives, albeit not as feature-packed. A compromise may be to take a heavy-duty external drive with you, so at the very least, your data is well protected.

So there you have it, a list of some not-so-typical things that can make life easier. If you can think of anything else, drop us a line and we’ll add it to the list.

Good luck !

Alyson Emmins

Photo Enlargements Printing to Poster Size – Giantprint

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When looking for good free stock photography websites, there are several factors to keep in mind. Many companies offer excellent stock photographs that are available for download for free or for a minimal fee. However, not all stock photography websites are designed the same. Some of the important features to look for when searching for a free stock photography website include: an easy to use search engine, the size and resolution of the photographs available, how the photographs are licensed, how often is the site updated, and which photographers are showcased.

Easy use to search engine
Having an easy to use search engine is an essential characteristic of the best free stock photography websites. A large collection of the best photographs is of little use if you can’t find the type of images you need. Some of the best sites include keyword searches that allow you to quickly identify the photographs most suited to your needs.

Size and resolution of available photographs
Some stock photography websites offer free images that are relatively small. Depending on your particular needs, you may need larger photographs. In some cases, it is worth it to pay a small per use fee or even a monthly subscription fee to have access to a wide variety of large, high resolution, good quality images.

Types of licensing
Stock photographs can be licensed in a number of ways. For example, royalty-free photographs typically mean that the image can be used in a number of ways without having to pay further royalties. However, royalty free is not synonymous with free and some websites may charge a one-time fee or a monthly subscription fee for the use of these images. Rights-managed images, on the other hand, specify the ways in which the image can be used. For example, a rights-managed image may be restricted in certain geographic areas or may only be used during a certain period of time. Extended rights images are yet another alternative where the client can purchase the right to use the image multiple times with no time limit for use. The best option will depend on your needs. For example, if you need several images, it may be worthwhile to consider purchasing a monthly subscription that permits the use of multiple images with an extended rights option.

How often is the webpage updated?
The best free stock photography websites will be updated frequently. This is important because it means there are fresh images available for use. New and innovative images will draw attention, while overused images will have the opposite effect.

Who are the photographers?
Finally, when selecting the best free stock photography website you may consider who the photographers are. Well-known photographers produce high quality, striking images. However, much can also be said for amateur photographers and up and coming artists. One interesting twist on stock photography is offered by photorogue.com where amateur photographers submit images to meet specifications provided by the client.

The best free stock photography websites will meet these basic criteria, allowing you to select from a number of high quality images while staying within your budget.

For more information on photography, visit http://www.pfe.com

One of the things folk ask me most about digital photography is how to take perfect “folks pictures.” Digital photography is superb for folk as you can simply remove the ones you hate, and show them, on the spot, what the digital photograph looks like. In any digital photography session, whether it’s portrait photography or photography at a birthday celebration it takes existing knowledge to getting “perfect folks” digital pictures. So here are the digital photography techniques to this kind of photography.

Folk Photography Secret number 1 :

Horizontal vs.Vertical

The general public who do digital photography of folks hold the electronic camera horizontal. Undecided why this is ; most likely as the electronic camera is built that way, but truly you can do well with holding the camera vertical as well. Horizontal digital pictures of folk are ok, but work the best when taking a group photograph instead of a single photograph of somebody. A vertical angle for your digital folks photograph can provide you with a great composition for close up and it tells you a lot more about that person a horizontal will. Horizontal angles in digital photography of single folks has a tendency to increase the quantity of potential mess and unimportant objects in the frame.

Folk Photography Secret Number 2

Where to put your folks in the frame

In digital photography, footage of folks work well by making some engaging composition.Don’t put your person in the middle of the frame simply because everybody else does their digital photography that way ; be unique and creative and you will get a much be result. And good digital photography is all about capturing that special moment of somebody to last and reflect something positive about that person, right?

Folks Photography Secret Number 3

Go Candid.Personally, in my past experiences as somebody who does digital photography for a job, I am able to tell you that candid digital photos work miles better then sensible photographs. It’s miles better to capture somebody just as they giggle at a funny joke, or see their pal for the 1st time in a while, or maybe speaking noiselessly to others, it much more interesting and creates a positive photograph of somebody than a dose of them looking into the camera with a posed shot ; hey any person can do that. But do take that digital photograph with them giggling and without knowing they’re being photographed captures a side of them that not everybody sees.It will show them in good spirits and make a positive image for all of those that see that digital photograph from this point on. Become creative with folk photography ; try black and white and sepia.And even try taking the digital photograph of them doing something that they love, like playing an instrument as an example.

EXCELIMAGES

360 degree product photography is a so delicate and involved topic because products come in so many shapes and sizes. Some may be very reflective, some may have dimensions that will prevent you from simply dropping them on a turntable, and some may have features that can be only highlighted when shot from a specific angle while hanging from the top and with a certain lighting setup.

The more constraints you have in your 360 photography setup the less options you get at your disposal for creating smooth 360 product views. It’s also very important to be able to quickly assess how your product appear from different angles with a given setup before you start on the actual production of 360 product images.

So before you go ahead and spend your hard earned money on a computerized equipment (which is invaluable if you do this commercially), here’s a simple guide for building a DIY turntable that will likely solve some of your product photography needs. The good news? It will only cost you a trip to a hardware store (Ace Hardware or similar), and an hour of your time to get it all assembled together!

What you need:

2 x 23″ disks of round plywood –
1 x 12″ Lazy Susan Bearing –
1 sheet of white paper enough to cover the top of plywood disks

So the turn table will be built using two disks of round plywood and a lazy susan bearing attached between the disks to provide a smooth and steady movement. The bearing is tough enough to deal with weights of up to 400-500 lb or even 1000 lb depending on a brand, so the weak link is the plywood. If you go with Shepherd’s bearing, they come with pretty good assembly instructions. The key is to find and mark the center on the plywood disks. This is pretty simple as long as the disks are perfect circles:

First, you will need to find something that has a 90 degree corner like a piece of a white paper sheet. Place the right-angle corner of the sheet at any point on the edge of the plywood disk and mark the other two points where it crosses the edges on the plywood. Then draw a straight line between the two marks and connect the marks with a straight line. Now repeat the same procedure using another point on the plywood. The intersection between the two lines is the center of the disk.

The rest of the assembly is pretty straightforward – just follow instructions on the bearing package!

Now that the major work is done, you need to decide how many frames your 360 product views will be comprised of. Usually, 20 frames per view gives a nice balance between the total size of the images/download speed and the smoothness of your product rotations. Check-out these sample 360 product views to see if 20-frame 360 animations will work for you:

Sample 360 product viewer 1
Sample 360 product viewer 2
Sample 360 product viewer 3

So to get 20 product shots, the turntable should be able to rotate in 18 degree increments. The key is to mark the top plywood disk in such way that you can easily identify the increments. One approach is to put numbered marks on the side of the disk. Since you already have found the center on the top disk, creating the 18-degree marks is pretty simple with a protractor.

The final step is to attach a piece of white paper on the top of the plywood disk where you will be placing your products and put a measuring mark on the bottom plywood base. Now put your camera on, align it with the measuring mark on the bottom and the center of the rotation, then place your product on the table and you are good to go.

Happy 360 Product Photography!

There are many ways to approach travelling with your photography gear. The first and most important question for the trip and gear needs to be what is your budget?

Unless you are lucky enough to score an all expenses paid job including flights, baggage allowance, transport, guides and secure accommodation you are going to need to think ahead.

I once did a 3 month tour of Asia and went on to NZ, it was on a low budget and I would be staying in dorms and hostels.

Work through your gear and streamline it, you don’t want to be without something but you also don’t want to be carrying extra weight that you are not going to use on your trip.

Once you have decided what u need to take the next step is to consider is your gear bag. Are you going to also be carrying a backpack or suitcase with clothes too? If you have that on your back, where is your camera gear going go? Are you going to risk checking it in to baggage or take it on the plane with you?

If you are on a budget then make it simple. Have a small bag within your main hold baggage with your batteries, chargers and non fragile items. Take your camera body and lenses with you as cabin luggage as a minimum. If you can take your filters and any fragile items too then all the better.

The reality is unless you can afford special transport / a good flight case to go in the hold you are going to have to be clever.

You are allowed to take in a reasonable size bag on the flight with you on long haul flights. When I travelled I had my lenses, body and some filters with me on the plane. I bought a lowpro waist bag that enabled me to keep my hands and back free for my main pack with clothes in.

Once you are at your hotel / hostel you can amalgamate your gear or have it how you want. It’s only when you are travelling by road or air that you will have to split items up.

Another issue is what to do with a tripod, you have 3 options. 1) Leave it at home and buy / hire one at the location, this is the most risky ideas as you can never be guaranteed what you can get, if anything!  2) Pack it in you main holdall 3) get a decent bag / case for it and put it through as separate luggage.

So research and try out bags and do lots of trial packing. Also many hostels and hotels do have safes either in rooms or behind reception but dependant on what country you are in don’t trust it 100%. Keep your body and lenses with you as much as possible, treat them like you passport and don’t let them out of your sight! If you loose charges or batteries through theft of missing baggage it’s a pain but it’s not game over.

Lastly, consider insurance and consider it well. Always allow for it in your budget. Often companies will offer discounts for equipment and for your own medical insurance so shop around and don’t skimp on premiums. If you can’t afford it you may want to rethink your trip and budget.

I was lucky enough to have no issues with baggage, thefts or breakages. I was covered insurance wise but didn’t need it which I am thankful for. Using your common sense and going with your instinct with reference to travel and safety is the best piece of advice I can give. If a situation doesn’t feel right then it’s because it probably isn’t. Good advice? Well hopefully, the main thing to remember is most people you will come across will be friendly and interested in what you’re up to and where you’re from etc. But the main difference is you will have expensive camera gear with you. Don’t ever let your guard down, be friendly but don’t leave yourself open. Be cautious and if going to countries with a strong selling / bartering culture ensure you have small amounts of cash about your person / the odd pack of cigarettes to offer if things start to get out of hand. You want to be prepared for confrontation not unprepared. If you are prepared for it you will be ok whether you are holding your cumbersome DSLR out for all to see or not.

Also you will find that people in parts of Asia like Thailand for example will be more than happy to pose for you in their natural environment if given a little something.

I hope I haven’t put you off the idea of travelling with you photography gear. Just remember to be prepared for all eventualities. Who knows next time you travel you might have scored that big all expenses paid job you got off the back of your last low budget trip!

Choosing a photographer .

How does one select a photographer from the many that are probably available in your area?

One can find a number of articles on the internet on how to choose a wedding photographer,  but what about other type of photography like portrait, pet, commercial or advertising work?

Let’s start by asking the question to oneself if we are comfortable with the photographer in a personal sense, as well as the quality of their work.  Does the photographer make you feel at ease? Do you find their character agreeable or do you sense an air of arrogance or perhaps even that “second hand car salesperson” approach. This is important, as they are in fact working for you!

The photographer’s work should basically sell itself, as should photographer’s character. After all, if one has trouble being sociable and courteous to customers, they have no business dealing with the public. The ‘quality’ of work is to be found in the photographers style and vision, which should reflect in their photographs and strike a personal note with you – and I am not just talking about weddings here. Style, composition, lighting and shooting technique are extremely important in both field and studio work – product, portrait, wedding… whatever. Most of us have a reasonable sense of what ‘looks’ right even if sometimes it’s hard to express the exact quality in words – more often than not, it’s easy to recognize.

How many ways are there to take a picture of a bride and groom? Probably as many ways as there are to take a picture of a ball bearing, or a Ferrari. Don’t see a connection? Well, if you were selling Ferraris or ball bearings you may, because it is unlikely for you as the customer to express a vision to the photographer by saying “I want this photo to look exactly like this….” It is in fact the photographer, through his thorough understanding of technique, and his sense of style and composition, who will come up with a shot that captures the attention and the imagination. Photographs can make or break both memories and advertising campaigns alike!

Of course, we live in a world which imposes other criteria to our choice, so price and location are also important. Good photos do not have to cost a fortune and pricing is often not an indicator of quality, but more likely an indication of overheads and advertising budget! Some shots are technically demanding and lengthy to set up, or demand a keen eye for detail to pull off successfully – this is true. As to whether there is value for money in paying someone ,000 to capture your wedding, or fire off a few shots for a 0 portrait… well, that is a question each must answer on their own.

I am of the opinion that a good photographer should be able to take a great shot using even the most basic equipment, so do not be swayed in your choice by the fact that they have a ,000 hunk of glass hanging from their neck (most photographers are inevitable gadget-freaks) Of course I do not expect there are many commercial assignments or sporting events shot with a disposable camera, but my point is that equipment is only part of the equation, a smaller part than most people think. Careful composition and the way lighting is used, are in my opinion of greater importance than the camera itself. What the photographer does with the light they choose to use, makes all the difference and light can be from any source; the sun, a flash, a studio strobe system, a light bulb or a candle.

Another point worth noting is what is behind the subject. The background  can have an enormous impact on how the ‘foreground’ is perceived. Have a look at how many photographers choose to use a plain white backdrop for their portraits for example. Personally I find this method overused and often boring and unimaginative. Sure, it has it’s place when used correctly, (certainly for product catalogs for example) but what I see more often than not is an easy ‘copout’ from spending a little time to come up with an imaginative composition which could have told the viewer something more about the subject. How easy is it to place someone (or something) in front of a white sheet, flatten out the light and press the shutter? Very!

So, when choosing a photographer consider if you see any of the qualities I have listed in them and their work. If you do, the chances are you will be happy with the result!

John Pedini

Studio Pedini Photography

http://www.pedini.net

All the basics of photography depends on the science of light and more you are comfortable playing with photography light, better it will get for you with time. When you look at the greatest of the photographs, you will see light playing the trick there. Shadows, highlights and mid-tones- everything is a tool for you to experiment.

Sit back on your study table: to get a hang of photography lights, read a few good books written for cinematographers on the subject. Learn details like 500 watt-seconds are sufficient with flashes for digital or 35mm photography. Many serious studio photographers start with about 2000 watts-seconds, which is sufficient for clicking 4×5 photography large-sized subjects.

Sunlight and moonlight: No one can surpass the power of natural lights. They are the most trusted sources and anytime when you seek natural shots, you cannot really achieve without natural photography lights. An insight about sunlight is that the color temperature varies all through the day. So depending on the shot you want, you can shoot at a particular time of the day.

Hot Lights: these are traditional tungsten photography lights or the Metal Halide Iodide (HMI) lights that burn continuously that light up the area continuously. These are the most basic studio lights and inexpensive ones. You can regulate the intensity of the light and make it softer and harder as per your requirement. You can see what experiments you can do by mixing artificial lights with the natural lights.

Warm Lights: these are softer versions of hot lights and works excellently for studio lighting purposes

Cold Lights: these photography lights are electronic flashes. They are external flashes and more powerful than the one in-built in your camera. Studio strobes come in two varieties- monolights and powerpack/head systems.

Light Control: once you are aware of the  Photography lights , you should know that how to make the most of the lights. Make sure you source the popular lights otherwise; you may get in to trouble when it comes to fitting lights and finding relevant equipment. Learn the controls very well so that you can modulate the lighting effects and click desired photographs.

Someone once said, “It appears some beginning photographers continue to buy new equipment, backgrounds, and doodads instead of photographing clients. Could this be ‘photo phobia’—where ‘building up the arsenal’ provides a form of comfort and feeling of progress, thus squelching the angst of reaching out to find new customers?”

I asked twenty-five established photographers the question, “After the purchase of a good camera and lens, what would you recommend as the next three investments for someone beginning in the photography business?” Their answers were all over the map, as each reflected back to their beginnings, but marketing and imaging software were high on the list.

In the fashion world, “accessorizing” means adding embellishments that make you look better. It’s not all that different in photography. Kidding aside, photographic accessories can be categorized in two ways: needs and wants. Be honest when asking yourself if you really need a new piece of equipment. You don’t need every new photo accessory that becomes available or tickles your fancy. That said, continue to modestly upgrade your equipment as finances allow in order to establish as “aura” of the consummate professional that you are.

Consider renting equipment.

Tony Corbell once said, “As far as equipment goes, all you need is a roll of duct tape . . . all the rest can be rented.” Though the statement is comical (with duct tape now replaced with A-clamps), it’s sage advice from an ultra-professional photographer who knows the business inside and out. Renting is a fairly inexpensive alternative to purchasing and, more importantly, it gives you the opportunity to try things out or simply use the equipment for a special assignment. Large retailers have rental programs; inquire about rentals at your local camera stores too.

An SB-800 or 900 flash unit is a great item to rent because it puts out a powerful source of light and can be used remotely (without an additional sensor) to create artificial lighting where needed, whether in a studio or elsewhere. Rental will run about to . A Nikon D200 digital body might go for 0 a day, but the later model D300 will cost almost twice as much. Don’t forget the lens to go with it! They run about each. Leasing contracts for camera equipment is a more long-term option and requires a commitment of ,000 to 0,000.

With recent advances in technology and the Internet, it has become far easier for people who wish to delve into the art of photography to actually do so without spending a fortune on equipment. The camera phone and Youtube craze has been a double-edged sword. While some feel that it has reduced the quality of photography, the simple fact is that an entire audience of people who might not have otherwise ever gotten into photography has gained an interest in it. For anyone who is looking to finally take the plunge for a quality camera setup, there are some pieces of photo film equipment (PFE) that must not be overlooked.

Camera

The most important piece of equipment in any film setup is the camera. Your shots are only as good as the camera you take them on, no matter how talented you are as a photographer. There are plenty of great analog cameras on the market, many of which can be purchased rather inexpensively. The best way to get set up with a new camera that is right for you is to go to a camera shop and explain to the clerk what you’re looking for, including what type of shots you plan to take, your price range etc.

Film

Just as important as the camera you use is the film you put in it. Film can range from low to high quality, and its prices usually follow accordingly. While budget film can be useful for test shots, one should never use cheap film for a final product, as it will almost always develop poorly compared to a more expensive, higher quality film. Use cheap film for tests, and good film for the actual shot.

Lenses

Chances are the camera that you purchase will come with an adequate lens to get started with. However, you may want to purchase a second or even third lens to add to your repertoire. While all-around lenses can be used in most lighting situations, they don’t handle any of them perfectly. That said, it is wise to have on hand specialty lenses, such as one meant specifically for nighttime shots. The more you can do to perfect the shot, the happier you’ll be with the final result.

Flash

Like lenses, different flashes are usually necessary for different situations, and chances are the flash that comes standard on your camera is not nearly as high in quality a the one you purchase separately. Build your bag up with at least one extra flash; two or three if you can afford it.

Tripod

A tripod is practically necessary for certain shots, and can help you to achieve monumental clarity and focus in your work. Fortunately, tripods can be purchased very inexpensively, and come in a variety of different shapes and sizes. Choose the one that you feel best fits the scenarios you like to shoot.

Bag

Without a bag, carrying all of your equipment becomes cumbersome. It’s not worth the hassle, so do what you can to purchase a high-quality, durable bag for your equipment.

For more information on (PFE) photo film equipment, visit http://pfe.com/p169918-shopping-for-photo-film-equipment-pfe.cfm.

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